
The twentieth annual James Beard Awards were held at Lincoln Center this evening, in what was surely the ceremony's glitziest outing to date. The event, named in honor of the late culinary pioneer James Beard, recognizes the best and brightest in American cooking and, as usual, Manhattan restaurants dominated. Among the New York chefs and eateries that took home medals:
Rising Star Chef of the Year: David Chang (Momofuku Noodle Bar)
Best New Restaurant: L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon (Four Seasons Hotel)
Best Restaurant Design: Xing
Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year: Michael Laiskonis (Le Bernadin)
But it wasn't a complete sweep for the Big Apple. Chicago's Frontera Grill was named Outstanding Restaurant of the Year and Michel Richard (of Michel Richard Citronelle of Washington, D.C.), received the Outstanding Chef of the Year award.
One of my favorite memories from the night was the double victory by brother-scribes Matt and Ted Lee. Shortly after their win in the Food of the Americas category for
The Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook--their first-ever Beard Award-- I asked Matt where their storied career might take them next. "It'll be all downhill from here," he answered in characteristic self-deprecating fashion. Not ten minutes later, the brothers had to make a mad dash out of the press room and onto the awards stage to accept a (clearly unexpected) second medal, this one for Cookbook of the Year. A visibly shaken Ted was so excited that he swayed back and forth as he made his acceptance speech, causing the two medals on his chest to clank noisly next to the microphone. Brother Matt finally reached across Ted's torso and clamped the medals together, effectively silencing the din. This is what brothers are for. Take it from me. I have two of them myself.
Following the black-tie awards ceremony, presided over by a mighty perky Hannah Storm, of
The Early Show, attendees fanned out for the gala cocktail reception, with cuisine by chefs including Marcus Samuelsson (herring-potato salad and cured salmon with burnt leek nougatine); Fabio Trabocchi (slow-braised veal cheeks with osso bucco jus and alba hazelnuts); Traci Des Jardins (Sonoma rabbit escabèche with fava bean crostini); and Allison Vines-Rushing (banana pudding brûlée with cat's tongue cookies). In years past, the crowded reception (held in a ballroom at the Marriott Marquis) has often felt more like a melee than a soiree. This time, however, the scene was refined and elegant. A new standard has been set for the James Beard Awards and not a soul was complaining.
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